Like a true Idiot ‘Merican, most of my introductions to foreign cultures are through movies.
On a recent trip to Seoul, after the first day of working with really great people, I was asked what I wanted for dinner. I said, “live octopus?” and looked at the woman for a reaction. Totally, unfazed, she said, “I don’t know any places close to here, but I’ll find one.” I was pretty surprised, I guess it’s way more common than I thought it was. We didn’t get a chance to go that night, so for the next couple of days, word got around, and I became the live octopus guy.
After a few days, I had a night without obligation, so I felt like it was a good opportunity to get into it. Luckily, the two women from the gallery were such awesome hosts, they were totally into taking me. One of the women had had it before, the other wasn’t sure if she remembered having it or not, but none of us had gone to the particular restaurant, so it was an adventure for all of us! My favorite!
The restaurant is unassuming, like most Korean restaurants I went to. Not a lot of thought to the interior design, but amazing foodings. It’s a good style, I’m on board for sure. There were aquarium tanks right as we walked in, with octopi stuck to the glass, must be the right place!
The live octopus dish, sannakji, was an octopus cut up into pieces, but still writhing away, served on a plate lined with lettuce. Also, we got a cooked octopus dish, nakji bokkeum, that was really spicy, but apparently, this place serves it mild, still hot enough to wake me up with spicy punches to the stomach in the middle of the night!
Sannakji is totally about the experience. The taste is virtually nonexistent, but the mouthfeel is totally unique. Chewy, but you can feel it moving in your mouth, and the little suction cups stick to everything, the utensils, every part of the mouth. I was nervous about the suction cups sticking to my throat, so I was the master masticator that meal. I was told it’s all about the dipping sauce, which is sesame oil and salt, but I found the sauce too salty for my taste, and ended up eating them plain.
Apparently, you’re supposed to drink alcohol with anything you are going to consume raw, but I didn’t feel up to the soju, so we had a raspberry sake. I also learned, that not only is it bad luck to pour your own cup of booze, but it’s also impolite to pour a half measure, even if that’s what is asked. It’s better to take the full measure and only drink half of it than to pour a half measure.
When asked where I’d heard of sannakji, I sheepishly admitted from the movie Oldboy. There was laughing and “of course” -ings, but they admitted Oldboy was a good movie. Even if it was out of courtesy, I felt better about it.


